I've got a big ish job coming up for a shop I subbie to which is engineered wood glued together, what I want to know is there a correct type of glue to use in the tongue and groove or can I just go with pva, will the UHF dry the glue out possibly so it won't hold the wood together. Also the customer is wanting the green barrier u lay on top of the electric hfh is it suitable?
No no no there are special underlays for ufh check out qa products also whats the sub floor only wuld rather full stick overufh . What type of ufh is it elec or water. Defo not glue joints willdry out and create probs Rather full stick to subfloor che k which adhesives are suitable Can you not use clic system boards instead quicker and better joins
It's a concrete subfloor and its electric Ufh, customer says its a roll out type of hfh that lays on top of an Ulay thats been supplied with it, he then says he wants the barrier ulay over the top of the hfh and the wood to be floated over that, it's a job from a shop so I turn up only to fit it. How would you full stick to a UHF if its the mat type?
I wish I could use a click system save me a lot of time, I haven't used the clamps for a long time back when you used to for tongue and groove laminates, the customer has already bought the wood from the shop I've started to subbie for, it's not my preferred choice of fixing a wood floor.
I don't see a problem with using b90 in the tongue and groove? Underlay has to be suitable for ufh tho. Normally a special product designed to go over it
shops fault should have sold them a click system board wrong product sold ,i wouldnt like to warranty it myself,maybee get shop to agree to a waiver on your behalf just in case . im sensing a possible failure down the line .jobs like these either go fine or tits up.
the supplied u/lay should be a special DEPRON u/lay or similar. this goes down first, then the ufh matting / system then a suitable vapour barrier covering the area, THEN you can fit the floor straight onto it... see link for Depron & vapour barrier http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BNDEP6.html?source=adwords&kw=&gclid=CLmJnufjprUCFSHHtAodhk8AhA
more like 26 degrees more will promote tenting in the board, will draw the moisture out of it making the boards drier than the air humidity levels.
28 degrees with B90 does not give you any tolerance given that the max temp for engineered wood over UFH is usually quoted at 28 degrees at the sub floor. When it all goes wrong can you honestly see Fball putting their hands up and saying "OK leave it with us and we'll sort it all out"? No neither can I. It will be "the heating clearly went at least 1 degree over and it's nothing to do with us"!!
You should check with the manufacturer /supplier as some of them only guarantee their product floated over ufh!
Done the job went together quite well clamped together well, natures own tongue and groove was the product, on the packaging it says don't go over 26 degrees, on the leaflet 24 degrees. only time will tell if problems occur, personally I'd like a more solid sub floor, chipboard then 8mm insulation board then the wire type UFh then 3mm barrier, seemed a bit too much give for me, customer were happy though.
