I wouldn’t want to bond to that. You could level it all with a flexible levelling compound and then put a heatpak or Jumpax over it. If the tile...
I try to leave them a month at least
Yeah hygrometer test to cover yourself. Dry enough for ceramic tiles. Unless the screed company gives you it in writing that screed will be dry...
Swerve that
Maybe just break out the hallway and install something else. No ways that floors going to be salvageable unless it hasn’t been glued correctly
Most say 45-60% rh air humidity so it shouldn’t go over 60%. Your gonna need breaks in the doorways for a floated floor that size. We never have...
How do you know you have a leaking pipe? You can get leak detection companies. Or you can ask your insurance company. If I don’t trust a floor...
Any pipe in concrete that’s not lagged is a burst pipe waiting to happen. I’d be digging that screed up and sorting from the base up. New dpm, new...
If you have a leaking pipe you need to sort that first or the water will find it’s way somewhere
No, either pack out the low spots with thinner ply, then ply over with the 9mm. Or you could use a levelling Compound on the low spot then 9mm ply...
It looks like an absolute beast.
A gritted primer at least I would say
Have any of them taken moisture readings of the floorboards? Herringbone is much better stuck down. Wouldn’t want to float that. Avoid Ted todd...
Wow. I think you should break it all out and have a new sand cement screed put in with a proper dpm sheet underneath! Im surprised Ardex have...
Not a great pattern repeat but not many lvts are
Boulevard or j2 timbers
Maybe get a air hygrometer and see if that’s it. Also how many m2 through doorways is it? Anything heavy on top? Any breaks in doorways?
Is it elka engineered wood?
Strange. We float loads of t and g and as long as it’s glued correctly there’s no sound. Lots of issues with clic systems without glue. How old...
Was the subfloor flat? What adhesive did you use in the tongue and groove?
