will try and keep this short done a wet room couple of weeks ago for a builder I do a lot of work for they latex floors (no problems with there latex at all for four years) then I come in and fit. Got a call a few days after fitting saying there was a bubble in it and could I sort it out so went over it was pretty obvious the latex had blow. Builder said to do what needs to be done to sort it as it is council contract job when sheet was pulled back the latex had blown. On closer inspection there was already a coat of latex down that a previous contractor had done when old bathroom floor was fitted (old Altro removed then builder latex over top to smooth out) this latex had some movement in it not much but some when I got a screwdriver under it it all just flicked up and had not bonded to subfloor. When this came up there was a layer of old floor tiles underneath that had not been removed I removed these tiles ( safely ) re latexed fitting new sheet no problems since. Should these tiles have been taken up in the first place (previous company saying they kept them down cos of asbestos) if no what latex should have been used (previous company used green bag with 114) Have some photos will try and post them sorry if this is drawn out thanks.
If they were old asbestos ones they were prob stuck in ata black adhesive they would of just ficked up so when the latex on top dried it would of pulled tiles off floor anyway
yep tiles in the main walk area came up easy and was on black bitumen tiles that would not have had much traffic where stuck quiet well
Thats the problem with them the amount of jobs I strip up where people have latexed over tiles does my head in but easy strip ups
Hi mate my understanding of it would have been to make sure any lose tiles should be removed Then make sure RH levels are good then use a suitable compound ie Acrilic based with the correct primer, then laying on the tiles shouldn't be a Problem mate But I have found in the past some compounds on top of each other can effect Performance . If in doubt phone tech advise relative to th product Your using
What manufacturers guarantee the screeds to go over vinyl tiles? Saying you can go over vinyl tiles with latex or giving latex names / product is just going to get anyone with no or little knowledge of flooring into trouble,
If the builder wont uplift them the fitter must, if they wont pay or wont let you then the door you walked in through also works for you to walk out and walk away, even a low strength screed will pop tiles of the floor
Hi mate , the ardex rep told us on a polyfloor course we spent a day with him learning about common scenarios that confused a lot of fitters,in an ideal world then nice clean sub floor in perforable but as we know a good fitter has to find solutions to problems,this tile issue came up if the sub is of sound structure an RH levels good you could proceed with no complications.end use of area is also a key factor.but your right mate as far as alway stay with text book for good practice.this is advise from pro to pro not a view a would advise to a novice
I should also say with ceramics ok and thermo layed with sound water resistant adhesives.experience is key here so in retrospect maybe not advise for genaral reading mate
go on any decent screeding course and they will give you a thousand reasons not to screed on top of vinyl tiles or any other floor-covering. There is always a quick way round a job / done it loads of times or just can't be arsed...thats until you have to rip it up and start again. All the screed manufacturers have training days and usually are free. Ardex do one every month at 2 or 3 sites across the uk- use them!! http://www.ardex.co.uk/Portals/0/ARDEX POCKET GUIDE 2012.pdf
I'm glad you put that link ip mate read it ive copied it and put it bellow • Contamination New or existing sub-floors may be contaminated or have barriers to adhesion. The surface must be hard, sound and free of dust, dirt and other barrier materials such as grease, paint, excess adhesive residues or loosely adhered materials. Where traces of adhesive residue remain, these must be sound, well adhered and non-water softenable. Like I said as long as the adhesive is water proof and sound and not lose Not ideal mate but possible if you know what your looking at ,you won't be going back ,if your not sure take every precaution for longevity