Oak parquet herringbone

Discussion in 'Pictures' started by dsmart, Jul 25, 2010.

  1. dsmart

    dsmart Well-Known Member

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    a recent oak herringbone i done. Whoever screeded the floor was a perfectionist... i was like a snooker table, i didnt need any levelling compound, just DPM (sika primer MB). I used bona S760 adhesive
     
  2. Matt

    Matt Well-Known Member Staff Member

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  3. tedmaced

    tedmaced Well-Known Member

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    Yes, i agree and welcome to the forum
     
  4. admin1

    admin1 Well-Known Member

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    Hi dsmart, welcome.

    Did your client request to have the herringbone installed as "elbow" pattern or is this the way you always install this pattern?

    Looks good though.
     
  5. dsmart

    dsmart Well-Known Member

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    Hi... Thanks

    The client actually showed me a picture of what they wanted in a magazine. Although this is how I would generally lay single herringbone. How do you lay yours?
     
  6. admin1

    admin1 Well-Known Member

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    As a "true" herringbone, in an 45 degree angle to the walls.

    [​IMG]

    For both small, mostly double (50 x 250mm) and larger, single, herringbones (71 x 284/355mm). Our blocks are 10mm thick and come without T&G.

    We use a industrial Oak mosaic subfloor first:
    http://manuals.woodyoulike.co.uk/spaces ... lid-floors
     
  7. dsmart

    dsmart Well-Known Member

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    the room is not square, if you look closely, its almost a dog leg! Look at the walls in the foreground, its running at 45 degrees to them, purely because those 2 walls were the longest. The wall with the rad is 135 degrees in relation to the wall on the left. its impossible to have it running at 45 degrees to every wall.
     
  8. admin1

    admin1 Well-Known Member

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    Right you are! (a room where all walls meet in perfect angle must be absolutely rare here. Ton just installed a normal floor in an extension where one new wall run from 7 to 14cm off! - builders!)
     
  9. admin1

    admin1 Well-Known Member

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    Hi dsmart, looks lovely!

    Looks like you laid this directly onto the epoxy DPM, which I understand it is a bit unorthodox. I've just done the same though.

    Did you sand the dpm surface before you laid the blocks? If not how did you find the adhesion was to such a glossy surface? I spent quite a while researching which adhesive to use over epoxy, and concluded that only MS polymer types were suitable. Bona recommends that s760 is laid over a slightly textured surface, which an unsanded epoxy DPM certainly ain't! But then if it stuck down well...

    Dom
     
  10. dsmart

    dsmart Well-Known Member

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    Hi Tigger,

    Yes, a bit unorthadox as you say. The DPM wan't sanded. I spoke to the technical guys at both Bona (adhesive) and Sika (DPM) and was advised that applying S760, directly onto a smooth DPM would be fine, though they both said it was an unoffical view and just based on their experience.
     

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