Hello guys, I was after some advice from you guys to see if what I was doing for my floor is correct. I'm redoing my kitchen and hoping to lay down some gluedown LVT and wanted to make sure what I was doing is correct. As it stands the area covers 2 different types of flooring in total of 27sqm. On the kitchen side we have a suspended timber flooring which is made up of 21mm(?) T&G planks (1970's) and the other 22mm moisture resistant T&G chipboard on PIR boards rested on a concrete slab. The floors are some what level and quite decently flat. The plank side does have some mild cupping of the planks in certain areas of just about 1mm at the highest. I would say in both the floors there is some mild deflection that can be felt, mainly on the plank side. My initial idea was to ply the whole subfloor with SP101 6mm ply, feather the joints and if still flat then prime the surface and glue down the flooring if not then screed the whole floor with a suitable SLC. The other option I was thinking of was to use 6mm nomoreply board screwed/adhesive down then prime with Uzin630 and screed the whole floor with Uzin196. Although with this option I can't see much information online about it being as viable as the former. Initially I wanted tiles but due to the floor and the build up that would have been required I have chosen to instead go with glue down LVT. I have not chosen a specific flooring yet but I am after something that is a bit more robust so was thinking Amtico. Let me know your thoughts! Cheers
I’d be going 9mm Sp101 plywood, 2 coats of feather on the joints sanding down each coat. or sp101 6mm then a fibre compound
Cheers Daz, think I might go for the 6mm ply and SLC over it. Would it be sensible to go for this Setcrete Acrylic Primer and use Mapei Ultraplan 3240 to get it flat and level? Build up would probs be 4-5mm at the peak.
Only thing i would worry about is that floated 22mm chipboard. Levelling compound will pull on that. I would go 9mm ply at least and a thin coat of levelling compound if needed. Also check the moisture content of the floorboards to make sure its all dry beneath the suspended side
Had a nightmare job for one of my elderly family few years back on a 90s built Jelson house with that chipboard floated on concrete slab. She had moisture issues and over time the chipboard warped. It had laminate laid over it which also warped. Ripped the lot out and had to have the whole ground floor sheeted then filled up with concrete - nightmare job with moving her out, storing the hoarders furniture and getting my chippy and plasterer in. Laid lvt over the lot when we finally got there... Thought I'd have forgotten about that crappy job till I seen this thread
Wow that sounds horrendous, I'm hoping we won't have the same problem as there is DPM under the PIR and 150mm up the walls.
Yeah that’s true. Often those floated chipboard floors dont have a dpm beneath them. Good that your one does. They move around a bit and the chippys always seem to cut them in tight with no room for expansion
Hello guys back here with an update to show you how it all went and for anyone else who stumbles upon the thread in the future. Ended up going with 9mm sp101 (was bloody expensive) and Ardex FF the joints and a couple of dips in the floor filled and sanded twice. Had a builder friend around who suggested a screed won't be necessary and this would be easier and less prone to messing up as a DIY job. Then using KE 66 put down Karhs tiveden which went down nicely, struggled a bit at the start getting the herringbone pattern started but managed to sort it out in the end. Did end up with 3 planks that I had to trim to get to fit as they wouldn't go into the space but that's more my fault that manufacturers. Thank you all on the forum for giving solid advice from this thread and others. I want to upload a photo but I can't till I get 10 posts.
Glad it went well, and yes sp101 isn’t cheap it shot up in price after COVID. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
