Hi Everyone, I am in the midst of a knock through in to my garage from my living room. Have had three flooring salesmen (not fitters) in to quote for LVT but none have left me with any confidence over their solution for bridging the gap I now have between the existing living room floor (screed) into the garage (insulated timber frame with chipboard top) - see image; As you can see in the image the section goes; Screed, Insulation Board, DPM1, Blockwork, DPM2, Chipboard. The gap is about 10mm deep and runs for about 2.5m. Both membranes lap over each other on the top face of the block. My builder was adamant we shouldn't cut off the damp proofing and that it would be best to bond it to the blocks with a grab adhesive and pour some sort of gap filler on top - unfortunately he hasn't specified exactly what. Two of the three flooring salesmen said they would cut it off and the third is doesn't know yet what to do with it. The area leads to the main rear door to the house and as such will be high traffic - I'm concerned about a) rising damp should the DPM be cut off or compromised and b) my tiles cracking or coming loose due to insufficiently strong filler or flexibility in the gap. Can anyone suggest a solution that maintains the integrity of the DPM whilst providing a durable and long lasting solution? Thanks Steve
Glue the sheet down so its flat as possible pour latex in the channel to level Let it dry Then span ply from the chip board side over the filled channel and over lapped on the concrete side Glue the edge to the concrete then latex the concrete to the level of the edge of the ply Use 9mm ply
I’d be taking the bricks out one course. Then flatten with sand under the dpm sheet. Tape the dpm sheet together folded. Fit in with screed & granno chips. Liquid dpm over the top when dried a meter on each side.
Thanks Spacey - I spoke to a representative from F-Ball yesterday who said to start with a waterproofing filler (stopgap F77) around the opening then packing the gap with ply - bonding the ply to anything nearby to anchor it - then pouring into the gap. I think spanning it with 9mm ply seems smarter as I'll get a solid connection on both sides - Cheers