Power flow floor vs lvt help please

Discussion in 'Vinyl / Impervious floor coverings' started by Gavincornwall123, Nov 23, 2017.

  1. Gavincornwall123

    Gavincornwall123 Member

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    having a couple of issues with a power flowed floor and fitting lvt.
    Builder grinded liatance off and hoovered.
    I used a 1/4 mix of f ball p131
    F46
    Lvt on top

    5 days later and I can just peel lvt up with no effort and p131 seems to just rub off the floor.

    Any tips on methods or other produce would be a great help
     
  2. markshark

    markshark Member

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    Hi gavin, firstly a hygrometer reading on powerfloat floors as the residual humidity levels are often too high for years after they are laid.
    establish humidity levels of the screed first.
    If it fails it is scurfy or shot blast then DPM time, then prime and 3mm of ardex NA to give the adhesive somewhere to dry in to.

    The only material I know to stay laid down straight on powerfloat screed is ATA asphalt adhesive and thermoplastic tiles .

    For now recover the material, it should be salvageable
    http://www.f-ball.com/en/product/digital-hygrometer/

    Mark, NVQ 3 floorlayer, cornwall
     
  3. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    Your talking about anhydrite I'd of thought, totally wrong way of doing it! Needs taking up and doing correctly flooring is probably buggered unless you have the patience to clean all the adhesive off the back, also your floor will need grinding again. If I were you I'd get a pro in as your subfloor is not done properly by most pros let alone a diy job.
     
  4. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    And for the record you can never with lvt just prime and stick to ANY subfloor at all, will always come back and bite you
     
  5. Gavincornwall123

    Gavincornwall123 Member

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    Got about 200sqm to do. Gonna cost thousands to dpm and screen. Seems a bit wrong that you buy a house and have to spent out just to put ur new floor down. Surely the builders should have the floor ready to take my flooring.
     
  6. markshark

    markshark Member

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    A house ? it wont be powerfloat then, it will be a gypsum floor or anhydrite as said above.
    Flooring is a highly skilled job, despite what you read on the internet, only genune floorlayers can lay floors properly, not carpenters or plumbers or DIY handymen.
    That type of subfloor is basically, sploodge, nothing sticks to it, you have to plywood over it and screw and plug it down, the surface of gypsum screeds is very poor and continually breaks down to poweder, it is laid for the builders benefit as a quarter of the cost of sand and cement screed, they pump it in and it can be walked on next day, looks good to the buyer but it is not sutable for laying stuck down coverings on.
     
  7. Mjd

    Mjd Member

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    Grind back, p131 or ardex p51, ardex NA then adhesive & LVT.
    99 times out of 100 a floor isn't ready to take LVT without further prep.

    A floated click-system based LVT maybe a better option if you don't want all the hassle of the prep work
     
  8. Gavincornwall123

    Gavincornwall123 Member

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    Gonna hire an hydrometer tomorrow, what reading should I be looking for? Box saying under 75% but not trusting
     
  9. Distinctive Adam

    Distinctive Adam Well-Known Member

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    Depends on what sub base we are actually talking about ? Sand & cement? Gypsum? How long has the sub base been down? Weeks, months or years? What was there before?
     
  10. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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  11. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    If it's power floated it it will unlikely have any laitance It will be very flat and dense with a polished finish and they tend to look a dark colour because of the moisture that’s trapped inside when the power float seals it. The surface is normally treated with a sealer and there quite often poured before the building has walls and ceilings so exposed to the elements for a while.

    Calsium sulphate can only be poured within a building not before (good question though ask a builder when your unsure)
    Mostly very flat but normally with a white ish Laitance. Some of the newer ones are low laitance and look more like concrete but they still need grinder to remove it. Most commonly they’ll be to encapsulate ufh There a very good thermal conductor. Never fibre reinforced so if your u can see fibres in the slab it’s most likely not Calsium sulphate
     
  12. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    what you are talking about is ADVANCED floor preperation for a floor which is 99/100 an extra cost to have fitted to a new build, lvt is an upgrade option, if you have bought a house and said you will do the floor yourself (as im assuming is the case) why would ytou think they would do anything additionakl to the floor, you have taken the responsibility to do it all and probabvly got a bit of money off in process.

    for 200m2 you are looking ast a fortune to do it properly, regrind the floor where you diyed a bit get proper moisture readings which id put money on being over 75%, you will need best part of palllet of 1100 with a few acylic primers and somebody with the skill set to put it down correctly, be surprised if getting someone in you had change from £2500 to be honest
     
  13. Gavincornwall123

    Gavincornwall123 Member

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    Builder has confirmed it’s a calcium sulphate/anhydride floor. It’s a new build do floor been down a month or two. Underfloor heating but not been on apart from text etc.
    Think I may call a company but what should the process be?
    This is a new kinda floor down hear in Cornwall and been told most companies won’t have dealt with it. Just wanna make sure I get the right people
     
  14. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    id do some research on hoiw to take your readings or hire a firm to come do a carbide bomb test as your wading into terriotry alot of floorlayers dont understand with caslcium sulphate let alone a novice, if you dont get it right all the screed will blow off the floor
     
  15. pf flooring

    pf flooring Well-Known Member

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    go see some local indipendants and say to them you have a calcium sulphate subfloor is it something they are aware of in regards to correct prep, most will give you a blank look mind as its a relitively new product for the uk and isnt widely used everywhere yet and to make things more confusing is called allsorts like flow screed or liquid screed
     
  16. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Grind the Laitance off first (not sand)
    Get the ufh on and you can force dry it Normaly takes about two weeks to dry then switch it off and get a hydrometer box on it when the ufh has cooled down. If it’s dry I’d prim with Uzin 360 watered down 1 to 1 then a neat coat on top Screed with Uzin 110
    Use Uzin ke66 adhesive not a PS as it doesn’t bond and peels off
     
  17. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Uzin now do a Calsium sulphate based feather finish 877 if you need to do any patching
    Don’t use normal feather unless you isolate it with primer which is a a pain
     
  18. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

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    Also you can’t lay on 110 until 48 hours later
    And 877 takes a long a while to dry to
     
  19. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Could be a power float mate, in Liverpool redrow have done power floating to a lot of them.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
     
  20. dazlight

    dazlight Super Moderator

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    Uzin do a system for that if not dry.
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