Anhydrite Screed - after Laitance removal, rough or smooth?

Discussion in 'Subfloor Preparation' started by Holster, Jun 11, 2017.

  1. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    We had a 50mm anhydrite screed down over a DPM around 100 days ago. For the first 50 days the conditions were far from ideal for drying @1mm/day (early Feb, definitely no where near 20 degrees air temp, fresh plaster throughout, room open to elements). After around 50 days we comissioned the UFH as recommended, and this has been running along with a dehumidifier for a few weeks now.

    The floor wasn't sanded after 7 days, but was sanded with an STR around 70 days in.

    We've done a RH floor box test and also a multiple tramex tests. Unfortunately the readings still appear to be too high. The driest part of the floor is where the floor prep machine has taken the scree down to white colour with a rough "sandpaper" like feel. This currently reads 1.0 on the tramex and 58% RH. The rest of the floor is pink/brown in colour with a very smooth-to-touch feel. Readings on this part of the floor are consistantly around 3.0 on the tramex everywhere (87%RH on the one section I measured).

    So... In summary, the UFH has been on for around 3-4 weeks during good weather, with 1.5 weeks in combination with a dehumidifier.

    When you remove the laitance, what sort of texture should you be left with? I'm wondering if the laitance has been baked on by the UFH, and we've only actually properly removed it in one place (where it's more white and rough to the touch).

    Any advice would be gratefully received! We're getting desperate now!
     
  2. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    Was the top hard before you tried to sand it ?
    If the latience is left to long it goes hard and needs to be grinded off rather than sanded
    A normal sanding disc only works if you catch it at the right time normaly after 7 days when the latience is still soft but that's before the UFH is switched on.
    If you try to sand it after the UFH has been running it's going to be rock hard and the sanding disc will do next to nothing
     
  3. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    To answer the question tho after its been grinded and all laintence removed it will have a ruffer texture
     
  4. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

    8,222
    1,681
    113
    Something seriously wrong there. 50mm with ufh should be dry, even with laitance. Have they flooded the place? Could try going over it with a copper disk, see if that opens in up?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    It's not been flooded, no. Here's 2 photos. First is how the majority of the floor looks. Second is the rougher, whiter patch I talked about that demonstrates better MC. Most if the floor is very smooth. Does the whiter section look more like it should do to you?

    IMG_0170.JPG

    IMG_0171.JPG
     
  6. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    That Needs grinded properly
     
  7. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    Have the moisture tests been done with the UFH on ?
     
  8. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

    8,222
    1,681
    113
    It looks like it's had a lot of water on it. Looks like mould growing on the surface!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  9. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    No, UFH turned off 72 hours before any tests done. Here's a pic. The circle is the surface under the pink/brown surface. Is the pink/brown surface the baked on crust? Should it all look like a grey concrete like texture inside the circle?
     

    Attached Files:

  10. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    It's been a working site for the whole time, so brown stuff is probably just foot traffic dirt.
     
  11. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

    8,222
    1,681
    113
    It looks right inside. Looking at the state of the top you may have to remove it all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  12. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    Thanks merit - appreciated. Does anyone else have any thoughts too? Surely how a finished anhydrite screed is meant to look is quite a well known thing?
     
  13. merit

    merit Well-Known Member

    8,222
    1,681
    113
    Bth I've never had to grind that much off the top of anhydrate. Normally get rid of the weak stuff, prime the hell out of it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  14. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    I've grinded a few when the latience has been left to long It takes a lot of work to take the top off but easy with the right gear.
     
  15. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    What's the right gear in your opinion Spacey?
     
  16. Neilydun

    Neilydun Well-Known Member

    2,894
    1,227
    113
    As others have said, it looks like the top layer has 'cooked' and it will be hard to remove, but an Str should do it. You can get diamonds for them, which will do the job. You dont want anything too heavy on there, as once the top is off, it can be soft.
    Once the surface is open, it should dry pretty quickly.
    Did you see them lay the floor ? I have watched it being laid, and depending on who does the job, they sometimes thin it right out with water.
    I have seen guys with a hose running constantly, making it a wetter mix. Thats fine for them, but can take forever to dry out, and often leaves a thick crust on the top.
    Whereabouts are you ?
     
  17. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    Thanks Neilydun, I'm in Sheffield. So you're in agreement that it should be taken down to the whiter grittier surface seen in the middle of the hole?
     
  18. Neilydun

    Neilydun Well-Known Member

    2,894
    1,227
    113
    Yes, get that crustyness off.

    Whats going over the top ?
     
  19. Holster

    Holster Member

    8
    0
    1
    Tile in one room, engineered wood in another
     
  20. Spacey

    Spacey Super Moderator Staff Member

    6,503
    1,881
    113
    I use a wirrble with the Ninja disc and PCD bit's Sorts it no problem
     

Share This Page